Alpine setting of complete solidarity. Exceptional views of the Ross Lake and the cliffs of Mount Hozomeen. Jack Kerouac wrote passages to his book Desolation Angels while working here as a fire-lookout.
Desolation Peak, located in Washington’s North Cascades within Ross Lake National Recreation Area, offers a challenging yet rewarding hike to a historic fire lookout at approximately 6,102 ft elevation. The trail features steep grassy slopes, alpine meadows, and sweeping views of Ross Lake and surrounding peaks—made famous by Jack Kerouac’s summer stint here in 1956.
By Boat or Water Taxi via Ross Lake:
By Road & Hiking via East Bank Trail: Drive along State Route 20 (North Cascades Highway) to milepost 138. The East Bank Trailhead offers a long (~44-mile round-trip), strenuous hike with significant elevation gain (over 7,700 ft).
No parking passes are required at trailheads within the North Cascades National Park Complex—including East Bank Trailhead and Ross Lake access points.
If parking on Forest Service land (not applicable here), a Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass may be needed—but not for this trail.
Day hiking does not require a permit, per National Park Service regulations.
Backcountry camping (e.g., at Desolation Camp located about 1 mi below the summit) does require a permit. These are limited, must be obtained from the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount or online, and a bear canister is required.
Summer (July–September): Offers the most reliable access—roads clear, weather more stable, and wildflowers in bloom.
Shoulder Seasons: Spring and fall can be unpredictable; SR 20 is often closed during heavy snow (late fall to mid-spring).
Plenty of water—trail remains hot and dry; no reliable water sources once above Ross Lake.
Sun protection: Hat, sunscreen, especially for exposed alpine sections.
Sturdy hiking shoes and possibly trekking poles for steep, rocky terrain.
Layers & rain gear: Weather is highly variable; lookout area can be stormy.
Bear canister if camping.
Maps or GPS download, as cell service is limited in the region.
Dogs are permitted in Ross Lake National Recreation Area and on Forest Service lands, but must remain leashed at all times.
Note: Dogs are not allowed on most trails within North Cascades National Park itself. Since access to Desolation Peak is predominantly via Ross Lake NRA, leashed dogs are allowed—but always verify local signage or with park staff before heading out.