Joe's Valley is a mecca for sandstone bouldering. There are good areas right off the highway or opt for a quick hike out of ~10 minutes. There is camping in most canyons as it's BLM Land. Duration: Full day or overnight.
The bouldering in Joe's Valley has been a hot spot for climbers from all around the world. Discovered by Utah climbers decades ago it has turned into a mecca for anyone who loves sandstone bouldering. The texture of the rock is very grippy and after a long day can leave you with little skin left on your fingers. Plan on having some of your best bouldering days here.
The Valley consists of 3 parts: Left Fork, Right Fork, and New Joe's. Left Fork is the oldest and has the most eel established routes. There are tons of classics in this area and a lot of them are right off the road. Right Fork has many popular areas to climb and even in the summer months there is a newer are much higher in the canyon with decent temps. Most of the areas are right off the road, but there are a couple that will require a 10 min hike. New Joe's is the newest area and is the highest concentrated area out of the three. It is completely separate from the Left Fork canyon and Right Fork canyon. There are boulders everywhere and some of the hardest ones in all of Joe's Valley. This area is also the hottest temperature wise. So if its a pretty cold day in Left and Right Fork, plan on hitting New Joe's up. There are two parking areas one that is fairly high up (see the Newest Guide Book) and one where an oil well used to be, but plan for a full day here as it can be kind of a hike in and around this area.
There is free camping in most of the canyons because it is BLM land, but please practice Leave No Trace camping skills. The closest town is called Orangville, Its tiny and has one store that serves as a one stop that has everything. There are Groceries, Gas, Snacks, Chalk, Guidebooks, Hunting, wifi, pizza place, deli, etc. A quick drive a little further down the road you will find a couple of small restaurants in Castle Dale, UT.